What is Microneedling?
Microneedling is a cosmetic treatment that utilizes fine needles to gently stimulate the skin’s natural healing processes. By encouraging collagen and elastin production, it supports the skin’s renewal, helping to improve texture, soften the appearance of fine lines and scars, and promote radiant and healthy functioning skin.
The origins of microneedling can be traced back to the ancient techniques of acupuncture. Acupuncture's use of fine needles to stimulate the body’s natural healing processes and balance energy (qi) laid the groundwork for other needle-based therapies. While acupuncture addresses a range of health conditions by stimulating energy points along the body's meridians, its underlying principle of using needles to stimulate a healing response inspired further developments in dermatology and aesthetics.
Microneedling, as we know it today, began in the late 20th century. Dr. André Camirand, a Canadian plastic surgeon, used fine needles to treat surgical scars and observed that the skin’s texture improved through collagen production around the needle points. This discovery, combined with a deeper understanding of how the skin heals and regenerates, eventually evolved into microneedling devices designed specifically for skincare.
How Can Microneedling Be Holistic?
From a conventional medical aesthetic lens, microneedling has gained a reputation as a "quick fix" for wrinkles, scars, and uneven skin tone.
However, approaching this treatment solely as a way to erase perceived flaws can distort its true potential. As a holistic esthetician, I believe that the intention behind any skincare treatment is as relevant, if not more so than the treatment itself.
For microneedling to truly support skin health, consider reframing it from being a way to “fix” imperfections to a tool for enhancing vitality and promoting skin’s natural regeneration process.
Microneedling is often used to go too deep into the live layers of the skin creating unnecessary and problematic inflammation. Instead of committing violence against the skin, with an attitude of blasting wrinkles away.
When I approach microneedling, I focus on a progressive method that works with the skin’s natural healing process. I believe in gradual, gentle treatments that encourage long-term improvement without overwhelming the skin. Some people take a more aggressive route, aiming for quicker results, but that can risk compromising the skin's barrier or causing irritation. My approach prioritizes sustainable skin health, supporting the skin’s natural ability to regenerate over time, so the results are balanced and lasting.
Microneedling works with the skin’s natural structure rather than disrupting it. Unlike treatments like dermaplaning or hydrafacials, which remove layers of the skin, microneedling respects the integrity of the skin barrier. It stimulates renewal without stripping away protective layers, which is key to maintaining long-term skin health.
Who is a good candidate?
Microneedling can benefit those who are looking to:
- Stimulate collagen production
- Improve the appearance of fine lines
- Enhance skin texture and tone
- Support the skin’s natural healing and regeneration processes
However, those who will benefit the most are individuals who understand that microneedling is not a one-time quick fix but rather part of a holistic approach to long-term skin health.
An ideal candidate for microneedling has intact, healthy skin and maintains a lifestyle that supports overall wellness, including low levels of inflammatory habits.
Who is not a good candidate:
Microneedling may not be ideal for individuals who currently engage in a highly inflammatory lifestyle. This includes those who experience high levels of stress, consume a diet rich in processed or unhealthy foods, drink alcohol frequently, and participate in other habits that contribute to inflammation. Such factors can hinder the skin’s healing process and reduce the effectiveness of the treatment. For optimal results, it’s best for candidates to prioritize a balanced lifestyle that supports skin health before undergoing microneedling.
Contraindications include:
Active Infections: Any bacterial, viral, or fungal infections, such as herpes simplex or active acne, can increase the risk of complications.
Severe Skin Conditions: Conditions like eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea can be exacerbated by microneedling.
Blood Disorders: Conditions like hemophilia or any other bleeding disorders that affect blood clotting may pose risks.
Recent Cosmetic Procedures: Individuals who have had chemical peels, laser treatments, or other invasive procedures should wait until the skin has fully healed.
Use of Certain Medications: Medications such as isotretinoin (Accutane) or anticoagulants can increase the risk of complications and should be discussed with a provider.
Keloid or Hypertrophic Scarring: A history of keloid formation or abnormal scarring may indicate a higher risk of adverse effects.
Tanning or Sunburned Skin: Sunburned or recently tanned skin can be more sensitive and susceptible to damage.
Immunosuppressive Conditions: Individuals with weakened immune systems may have a higher risk of infection or delayed healing.
Uncontrolled Diabetes: Poorly managed diabetes can affect healing and increase the risk of complications.
Allergic Reactions: A history of allergic reactions to topical anesthetics or ingredients used during the procedure can pose risks.
Recent Vaccinations: Certain vaccinations may temporarily compromise the immune system, making microneedling inadvisable shortly afterward.
What are the benefits of microneedling?
What to expect from your microneedling service at Stratum Aesthetics:
As with all treatments here, microneedling is approached with reverence and intention. Please be aware that if your skin is not in an optimal condition to receive the treatment Emily may opt for a supportive facial or to cancel the treatment at time of service. Microneedling will not be performed if she deems it not in the best interest of the health of your skin.
Microneedling is performed exclusively with pure hyaluronic acid, a substance that naturally occurs in the skin. Hyaluronic acid provides essential hydration and allows for smooth needle application during the treatment. Other serums or oils are not recommended, as introducing unfamiliar products can lead to the formation of granulomas—small lumps in the skin caused by the body’s immune response to unrecognized substances. Using pure hyaluronic acid helps ensure a safe and effective microneedling experience.
The microneedling treatment is paired with both LED and lymphatic drainage. this combination enhances the overall benefits for the skin. LED therapy helps to further stimulate collagen production and accelerate healing, while lymphatic drainage promotes circulation reduces inflammation, and aids in optimal healing and hydration of the skin.
After microneedling, products are not applied to the skin because the micro-channels created during the treatment can increase the risk of introducing foreign substances that the body may not recognize. Applying serums or other products immediately after the procedure could lead to granuloma formation, as the skin might react negatively to ingredients it does not identify. To ensure optimal healing and prevent complications, it's best to allow the skin to recover without the introduction of additional products until it has fully healed. This approach supports the skin’s natural healing process and minimizes the risk of adverse reactions.
It is recommended to apply nothing to the skin for 24 hours after your treatment.
For this reason it is recommended to bring a hat to your service to wear afterward to avoid sun exposure to the skin.
What are the potential unwanted effects of microneedling?
It is important to go into every treatment you receive with eyes wide open. Understanding all potential unwanted side effects is true informed consent.
Despite its benefits, microneedling does carry some risks, especially if done without proper preparation or care. Potential unwanted effects include:
- Temporary redness and irritation
- Dryness or peeling as the skin heals
- The risk of infection if the procedure is performed in unsanitary conditions or by inexperienced practitioners
How to Prep for Microneedling:
Preparing the skin for microneedling is important for minimizing risks and ensuring the best possible outcome. A few key tips include:
- Discontinue consuming alcohol in the days leading up to the treatment.
- Reduce inflammatory foods and consider protein rich foods to gear the body up to heal.
- Discontinue the use of harsh exfoliants, acids, and retinoids at least 5 days before treatment to avoid excessive irritation.
- Hydrate the skin thoroughly in the days leading up to your appointment, as healthy, well-moisturized skin will respond better to the treatment.
- Avoid excessive sun exposure and protect your skin with mineral sunblock.
Post Care For Microneedling
- Be sure you only touch your face with clean hands following your treatment. Better yet, avoid touching your face.
- Wait 24 hours after treatment to cleanse and apply any product.
- Avoid intentional and direct sunlight for 72 hours
- Avoid exercise, or any activity involving heat (sauna, steam room, hot bath or shower, hot tub, etc) for at least 72 hours following your treatment.
- Avoid chlorinated water for 7 days post-treatment.
- Do not use any type of exfoliation for at least 7 days following your treatment (this includes, AHA, BHA, scrubs, cleansing brushes, retinol, Retin A, etc.)
- Products utilized during healing time should be gentle, hydrating, and antioxidant-rich.
- Do not wax treated area for at least 14 days after treatment
- Do not microderm, peel, dermaplane, or receive any type of invasive treatment on the treated area for 6 weeks after treatment.
What happens in the year after just one microneedling session?
1. Immediate Reaction (First 24-48 Hours)
Immediately after a microneedling session, the skin experiences controlled micro-injuries from the tiny needles, which triggers the body’s natural healing process. Here’s what happens:
- Inflammation: The skin becomes red, swollen, and inflamed as blood rushes to the treated area. This is a normal response to the controlled injury.
- Microchannels Form: Tiny punctures or channels are created in the skin, allowing for enhanced absorption of topical products like serums.
- Wound Healing Begins: Platelets and growth factors in the blood start to work on repairing these micro-wounds.
2. Collagen Production (Days 3-7)
After the initial inflammation, your skin begins the repair process, where collagen and elastin production are ramped up.
- Collagen Synthesis Initiates: Fibroblast cells (which produce collagen) are activated, and new collagen starts forming around the micro-injuries.
- Elastin Production: Elastin, which helps maintain skin elasticity, also increases.
- Healing and New Cell Growth: New skin cells are generated, gradually replacing the old, damaged cells.
3. Early Remodeling Phase (Weeks 2-4)
This is when you’ll start to see visible changes in your skin as new collagen fibers are laid down, and the healing process becomes more noticeable:
- Improved Skin Texture: The skin begins to look smoother as new collagen tightens the skin and fills in fine lines and mild scarring.
- Reduction of Redness: Most of the initial redness and irritation subsides as the skin heals.
- Tightening Effect: The increase in collagen and elastin leads to improved firmness and overall skin tone.
4. Collagen Maturation (Months 1-3)
During this phase, the newly produced collagen starts to organize and strengthen, continuing to improve the skin’s structure.
- Collagen Fibers Strengthen: The collagen that was produced in the initial weeks begins to mature and tighten, which improves skin thickness and elasticity.
- Skin Continues to Firm: Wrinkles and fine lines appear reduced, and the overall firmness of the skin improves.
- Gradual Brightening: Hyperpigmentation or uneven skin tone may start to fade as fresh skin cells rise to the surface.
5. Long-Term Remodeling (Months 3-6)
This is where deeper, more long-lasting changes to the skin occur. The skin continues to remodel itself, and improvements become more visible.
- Scar and Wrinkle Reduction: Scarring, including acne scars and fine lines, become less pronounced as collagen continues to rebuild and firm the skin.
- Continued Collagen Production: Your body continues to produce collagen, which leads to long-term improvements in the skin’s structure and appearance.
- Skin Tone Evens Out: Pigmentation issues, if any, will continue to improve, and overall skin tone becomes more uniform.
6. Long-Term Benefits (Months 6-12)
By the 6-12 month mark, the effects of microneedling become more pronounced and stable, as the skin has fully remodeled itself.
- Maximized Firmness and Elasticity: Collagen and elastin production peak, resulting in firmer, tighter skin.
- Improved Skin Thickness: The skin’s barrier becomes stronger, and overall skin health improves, contributing to a more resilient and youthful appearance.
- Sustained Glow and Texture: The long-term improvements in skin texture, tone, and glow become more evident, and the skin looks and feels rejuvenated.
- Reduced Fine Lines and Scars: By the end of the 12 months, deeper wrinkles, scars, and textural issues have softened, providing smoother skin.
What Impacts Long-Term Results?
- Frequency of Treatment: Multiple microneedling sessions spaced several weeks apart are often necessary for optimal results, as collagen production is cumulative.
- Skin Type and Condition: People with better baseline skin health may see faster results, while those with deeper wrinkles, more scarring, or sun damage may require more time.
- Post-Treatment Care: Following proper post-care instructions (hydration, barrier repair, and avoiding sun exposure) will enhance the overall results.
Why multiple microneedling sessions are ideal:
Three to six microneedling treatments are typically recommended over a single session because the skin’s healing and collagen production processes are cumulative, meaning that multiple treatments build upon each other to achieve the best results. Here’s a breakdown of why a series of treatments is more effective:
1. Collagen Stimulation is Progressive
While even one microneedling session can stimulate collagen production, the results are relatively subtle. Collagen synthesis takes time, and the body continues producing it for months after each session. Multiple treatments allow the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, leading to progressively better improvements in texture, firmness, and elasticity. With each session, the skin’s structure is strengthened, fine lines and wrinkles soften more, and scars or other irregularities gradually diminish.
2. Layered Skin Rejuvenation
The skin is made up of multiple layers, and microneedling works by creating micro-injuries that trigger healing in both the superficial and deeper layers. A single treatment may only address the surface layer of the skin, offering limited improvement. However, with three to six treatments, the deeper layers of the skin are progressively stimulated to heal and regenerate, which leads to longer-lasting and more substantial results, especially in areas with significant damage like scars, wrinkles, or hyperpigmentation.
3. Improved Texture and Scar Reduction
For individuals with more significant skin concerns, such as acne scars, fine lines, or large pores, one session won’t provide enough stimulation to fully smooth the skin. A series of treatments allows the skin to gradually repair itself layer by layer. Each treatment helps break down scar tissue, smooth out the skin’s texture, and promote collagen in the treated areas. By spacing the sessions several weeks apart, the skin has time to rebuild and rejuvenate, making each subsequent session more effective.
4. Consistency Creates Lasting Results
Skin responds best when stimulated over time, rather than all at once. One treatment may trigger some short-term improvements, but multiple sessions ensure that the results last longer and are more noticeable. With three to six treatments, clients experience cumulative improvements in skin tone, texture, and firmness, with longer-lasting results that continue to improve over time as collagen builds up. Additionally, the sustained collagen production helps maintain a youthful appearance longer.
5. Targeting Specific Skin Concerns Takes Time
If someone is addressing a specific skin concern, like acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, or deep wrinkles, one session of microneedling won’t be enough to fully resolve these issues. These skin conditions often involve damage to deeper layers of the skin, and multiple sessions are needed to fully target and repair them. Each session creates micro-injuries that signal the body to produce more collagen and elastin, gradually improving the skin's appearance over time. For example, deep acne scars or severe sun damage require more treatments for a noticeable reduction.
6. Supports Healthy Skin Maintenance
Microneedling can also be part of a long-term skincare strategy. Multiple treatments not only help address immediate concerns but also support healthy skin maintenance. By doing several sessions, you're encouraging your skin to consistently produce new collagen and elastin, which helps to maintain youthful, resilient skin over time. After completing a series of treatments, maintenance sessions (often done every 6-12 months) can help preserve the results.
